Відео

I am in the process of replacing my camera so when I do, I will be back on a weekly schedule.

Thanks! Season 3 is in the planning but need a new camera. Looks like we are going to North Africa for Season 3 though Dave's Germans will not be in DAK colors.

and normal d6 will do just fine

Yes, there will be a season 3. I need a new camera but it is being planned.

@DZSabre glad to hear that. Can't wait. R u going to historicon?

I will not be making any edits to this series as 3rd edition is coming out. I will de an entire 3rd Edition series instead. Also, you failed to mention what needs to be fixed and simply made a statement in all caps. Not productive.

Sorry for the late reply. This was 1157 for Germans and 801 (according to Jake) for the Brits. Though not intended to be different point values, Jake limited himself to what he had painted. The gial was for Dave to learn the game and for Jake to get a refresher.

@@DZSabre No problem! Have been watching your videos and making am army for 2 years finally got a club going and first tourney end of this month! Trying to build a Polish Army to specs. Would love if you could check out my forces and videos! Will keep you updated and thanks for the info and inspiration! Hope to see more Bolt Action vids especially the history about the Poles!

Thanks for sharing this tip. That is a perfectly sound idea. I might use that on the sloops I just built. For the larger ships, I have looked at, especially the ones that have actual arsenal models available, the bowsprit lines are secured lower than the forecastle which guided my placement. Your suggestion is an excellent one for all models and I am so pleased you shared it with the community.

it is unwaxed. Both are from Unit-Thread by Unit-Product, Inc. The black is 6/0 size and the tan is 8/0 size. You can get it at Feather-craft.com or Bass Pro Shops

I have not been able to find any definitive information about the gray used on Spain's ships. However, since the Spanish shipyard that built the ship was owned by the British Vickers-Armstrong company, it is plausible that the gray used on the ship might have been the same as used by the British when the ship was built. Let me dig into that a bit and I will reply to your comment again when I have more info.

OK, after more research, I am going to make some assumptions. First, Most countries had their own Idea of what Gray to use for their ships so each country would be different. However. since the naval construction in Spain was monopolized by "Sociedad Española de Construcción Naval" which was mostly owned by the British company Vickers-Armstrong and British technical advisors were engaged there, the British influence may have extended to paint color choice. It would make sense for the British to source British paint even on foreign contracts. So with this in mind, Since Britain used 507B as their base coat on ships during the time the Libertad was originally built (1925 launch date), my recommendation is to use Vallejo Model Air 71.046, Pale Blue Gray as the gray for the ship. I think it is the closest you will find. This color seems to be closest to Tamiya' XF25 which is a match to 507B. I hope this helps.

that is what I did with the very first ships I built. I found this way easier because you are only painting a single color after priming.

the running lines from both spritsail yards go to the lowest top. At least that is how I see them run on the arsenal models and the actual HMS Victory. One interesting point though is that the captain of the ship had a lot of discretion on how some of the running lines were run on the ship so though my sources (for the Spanish navy and the HMS Victory) show it to the lowest top, it is not necessarily wrong to run the foremost spritsail running lines to the next top up on the foremast.

you can email me pics at dczsabre@gmail.com

Excellent question. I never need to drill the yards. My rigging videos show how to run the rigging for the yards and all utilize a half-hitch knot. If I am misunderstanding you, let me know. As for the tops, for the metal masts, you will need to drill the lowest platforms right in front of the mast to run the stays. I use a small drill, #67, to make the holes.

I suppose I should have clarified the question. I meant on the Metal masts where the top sits right on the yard there is zero space to thread anything between. That is where I was referring to as to drilling holes between the tops and the yards. To be totally Honest, I hate the metal masts. They are too weak and bendy for me. I would prefer them to be styrene or even resin cast if needs be. Yeah, in theory one could "Pin" the mast if it broke, but even then that is sketchy. As to the rigging itself, what issues have you run into while rigging these metal bendy masts? And do you do the rigging the same way as for the Plastic kits? @@DZSabre

I will have to buy another Merchant Ship set and the East Indiamen so I will l have to budget fort hat. Any specific help you need that my general building tips videos do not cover?

Mounting the Lateen Spanker sail boom, General building tips for them. Something that I did on mine was to drill a few holes on the under side near the bow so that when I drill thru for the bowsprit rigging I don't have to drill all the way down to the bottom of the ship. I can run the rigging in that drilled out area and then glue it up inside there. This way there aren't any strings on the bottom of the ship. That and since the tiny drill bits that I have aren't that long either and won't reach the bottom of the ship model. I could take pictures of what I have done, but I don't know how to share them here. @@DZSabre

OH and taking your advice about drilling out where the ratlines connect on the "Large" Merchant ship. The Channels I believe they are called. I drilled tiny holes in the aft for flags mounted on straight pins to go into as well. It seems the Merchant ships have the perfect place to put the flag poles.@@DZSabre

I have built the Santisima Trinidad and the Spanish 1st Rate. The way I do that is to drill a small hole on each side of the bowsprit where it meets the hull. the holes go all the wat to the bottom of the ship. I actually stat by treading each end of the rigging thread through each of the holes so it comes out above and then I ties them to the ends of each of the spritsail yards and tie off at the tip of the bowsprit.

@@DZSabreOkay, I was wondering. So I looked at Santisima and the other two 1st rates and the two Merchant ships. I'm thinking maybe if I am really careful I can use a large enough drill bit and drill up from the underside a little, then using a smaller drill bit Drill from the top down to where I drilled from underneath. I'll need to do that since the small drill bits are not long enough to reach from top to bottom of the ships hulls. Your thoughts? Also, just as an fyi, I use a needle threader for feeding the thread thru the holes so the depth of the hole will be crucial since the threader will also need to reach thru to the other side.

I have a sewing threader but the wire is too large to fit through the holes. The issue is not with the threader but with the fact that I prefer to use the smallest hole possible. Your recommendation is very good and I encourage others to do the same as long as they drill larger holes for the thread.

Those are kinda unbalanced... that is why we came up with the Clash of Heroes games. Let me ask you this ... what game ... any game .... would you like to see us try? Just curious

I don't have access to the armies most of those campaign books require. That makes it difficult to do those. However, if I find one that matches the models I have as well as the models in one of my friends' collections such as Dave or Joker, I would run them. Having said that, Future Clash of heroes seasons will feature similar campaigns as Stalingrad, Normandy and Market Garden (I have plans for a Polish Independent Parachute Brigade)

@HaverbrookSewerSwim I actually like bolt action atm, as WW2 is the only wargaming I have the time and mood to do. But with that in mind, you could try Chain of Command (apparently the most often cited alternative to bolt action) or even the older crossfire. As for the campaigns and in reply to@@DZSabre. Have tried few scenarios here and there and currently about halfway through the Stalingrad book. The models weren't an issue, any generic german/soviet force of the era can somewhat do, although here and there you might need to proxy a squad for airbornes or so. To me, it was actually okey to play and most of the scenarios weren't badly unbalanced, although couple were dead lost to one side, at least I think so and it happened in our game. We think (but nobody knows until we finish the campaign) that the unbalance might swing back and forth, i. e. scenario 1 favours the soviets, scenario 2 might favour the german etc. It is the format I like the most in bolt action atm, so would love to see more campaigns from you, whether it's the official one or your excelent clash of heroes style.

Yes, Season 3 is in the works in the sense that I need to complete models for my army. Season 3 moves us to North Africa.

@@DZSabre can't wait. R u doing commonwealth?

Not sure I follow because superglue is CA. Loctite is a weaker version that allows you to break the glue when you actually need to loosen a screw so maybe the fact that it is weaker prevents the fogging. Thanks for the tip.

@@DZSabre Loctite makes a specific CA for use on glass. It is thin however, when using a toothpick it can be put on precisely. The great thing about using the Loctite branded CA for glass is that it does not cloud the acetate the ratlines are printed on regardless if you put too much on or not. It's a shame we cannot post pictures in the comments, I could show you a picture of the tube.

they would be Soviets from 1918 to the dissolution of the USSR. Russians were one of the peoples included in the USSR.

Excellent question. The running rigging from the ends of the spritsail yard do not actually go to the hull. The running rigging goes to the first/lowest platform (fighting top) on the foremast. The rigging running from the tip of the bowsprit to the middle sections of the of the spritsail yard continue on to the hull and should be secured at the gunwales just inside the arms (bitts) where the anchors would be hung. That requires drilling into the gunwale or you can take the easy approach and tie the stay off at the base of each of the bitts.

@@DZSabre Good to know. I did drill a hole in the gunwales just in front of the "Bitts" as you referred them as. I figured to bring the threads thru the holes then glue them on the back side of the gunwales then nip off the excess thread.

Thanks for the info!!! I was not aware and this is great news. I recorded the video about 6 months ago and at the time, no internet searches brought up this company.

That is an interesting take. I will think about that more and may even make a separate video laying that out as a house rule option.

@@DZSabre my son and I have another rule regarding snipers and crew served weapons. So I do a house rule with my son with snipers against support weapon teams. First we have bolstered the small squad option to 3 man teams, it just makes sense to us. So it is in effect when 3 man crew teams are shot by everything else except being shot at by snipers, so the small team rule still does not effect the sniper. Meaning they ignore the mmgs small squad size -1, as well a sniper cannot add a 3rd man and still be considered a small squad, they still can be only 2. Also when a sniper shoots the machine gunner or main mortor guy, that guy dies and that team cannot shoot or move the remainder of that turn if they havent shot yet and they take D2 pins and are forced down. That is so to simulate men not giving up, but in shock and the time it takes them to recrew the weapon. The next turn they have to do a moral check to pass to recrew the weapon and fire that turn. If they fail they run 10 inches to the nearest edge of the board where no enemies are in their path, normal terrain rules apply. If they reach the end of the board with movement inches left they leave the table, if they don't leave the table, then the next turn they can only do a rally and if successful they are back in the fight. If they fail they are removed from the board. If the sniper shoots and kills a man in a team that has already had their turn they still take d2 pins are forced down and can perform any action next turn, assuming a successful morale or rally check except for fire, because the team still needs to recrew the weapon and assume the new responsibilities.

@@DZSabre I also have mmg team rules, such as they are a small team. They give one pin on a hit and one additional pin if they cause a casualty. They also get +1 to hit if they are in ambush. As well as they only get a -1 to long range from 27 inches to 36 inches. So the last 9 inches. It made mmgs more viable to take and worth their points then everyone spamming lmgs. I've thought about playing with making lmgs max range 30 inches but they don't get a minus 1 to hit for long range until the last 6 inches, so from 24 to 30 inches. But I haven't messed with the lmgs yet.

I wish I could but I had to run the event and could not record it

@@DZSabre super bummer An overview would be cool Hope u had a great evrny

You know< I think I have a way of doing that overview. Thanks for the suggestion!

@@DZSabre np, can't wait to see it. Thanks

I had the similar idea that each hit is a pin but, yeah.. ridiculous. thanks for sharing your ideas. I like the 3-man small team.

More are on their way! I have a few already recorded but due to the health of one of the players and my preparation for the Flatcon 2023 event in the first week of October where I am hosting a Bolt Action event, I have not been able to do much with videos. Come mid-October, I will be back to releasing videos.

I understand your point but the damage mechanics in BS don't track hull, rigging, gun and crew damage separately. it is a combination of all four and since a fireship has no crew at all once set ablaze, and has been stacked with a lot more flammable fuels like timbers, pitch and oil, the fire is not initially burning the ship itself. Historically, they were sailed directly at an enemy fleet, usually anchored, and then when not too far away, were set alight and the few crew would take to the last longboat. The ship did not need to burn long to do the damage as it would be amongst the enemy fleet within a couple game turns, long before the rigging and hull would begin to take serious damage. Fire damage for normal ships assumes that the actual structure of the ship started burning right away. This is how I think of the difference.

@@DZSabre Ultimately, I guess, it comes down to game balance. If the author wanted to have fire ships on fire from turn one to make it less complicated, there wouldn't really be any point in taking them if they burnt down before reaching the enemy fleet. And yes, out of control fire ships are quite hilarious. ;-)

There is a distinction between 'into the wind' and 'toward the wind'. If anchored, you can turn toward the wind as long as you never go far enough to end up facing 'into the wind'.

I do sails last because I find it much harder to tie knots witht he sails in the way, especially since I am using so many clove hitches and other loops.

I am very glad I could help with this video!

That is my collection of military history and theory books. They range from "Ceasar's War Diaries" to "How to Make War". Liddell's book "Strategy" is among them. I have read them all and maybe I can do some review videos. The three fencing books to the right are included because I trained under the Italian school of fencing which has a strong martial influence unlike amy of the sport fencing techniques taught today. The tactics of single combat have a lot of similarities to the tactics used in larger engagements.

@@DZSabre thankyou. I would please love a review video at some point if you could.

It happens. Should have stuck in the tracks

Thank you. That is a very fine compliment.

based on my research, the US did not actually implement the fire team organization until after the war based on a study of the squad effectiveness of the different nations. During the war itself, the US team acted as a single unit with the SL directing the BAR fire as needed.

@@DZSabre being a Marine I knew we had used fire teams in WW2 but suspected there was informal “half squad” in the army. ua-cam.com/video/MPBztuaDNhM/v-deo.html. This gent seems to have done some extra work which you might find interesting.

I understand the frustration. I look at it this way. Even though the gun is elevated over the hedge, the rules would get over complicated if you had to measure each piece of terrain individually when a vehicle is shooting over it. Based on converstions with several of my combat veteran friends, though 'soft' cover would not protect a target from a bullet, it does hamper your ability to accurately aim since the entire target is not visible. I do not believe that the rules actually say anything about shooting over obstacles from elevated positions so what we do is look at true LOS. If more than half of the models are at least partially covered by the obstacle, which is VERY rare, then they get cover. Usually they will not.

@@DZSabre I appreciate you responding. There is definitely a split among the players considering this rule. And what about the units firing from openings on the elevated floors of building, do they also get this penalty to shooting?

I know!!! what an amazing moment in the game.

Really glad I could help

Thank you.

feel free to share it on Facebook or other platofrms. it always helps.

Yes. the whole point of the series is to explain the rules through the FAQ version published at the time of the recording.

@@DZSabre Your videos have been extremely helpful. Even on re-watching episodes, I’ll pick up more tips. I think that in-person teaching could be even more helpful. You’re a very good teacher of the game…have you ever considered hosting an informal or formal event - perhaps a one or two day thing - in which you people wanting to learn all aspects of the game first-hand could learn from you, perhaps even with a modest “tuition”?

I have never thought about that in any formal sense as you describe but I did hold a training session for a new player last October at a local convention. That could be something I do at Adepticon next year though I am not sure what Warlord Games may say about it. I really appreciate the compliments. It is a real encouragement.

I got to say haven't watched your videos I've learned stuff about the game having watched battle reports from other people I've been entertained but the rules weren't covered real well. I to appreciate you

​@DZSabre I got to say haven't watched your videos I've learned stuff about the game having watched battle reports from other people I've been entertained but the rules weren't covered real well. I to appreciate you

these tules are in the Western Desert and Duel in the SUn books. In my previous two videos, I review the terrain rules. Upcoming, I will have another video about the weather effects and more field exercises showcasing the rules in use.